Holga 120 WPC (Wide Pinhole Camera)

The Holga 120WPC is a wide angle pinhole camera from the same people that brought the iconic toy camera, the Holga 120.

Holga 120 WPC

Like it’s older brother, the 120WPC takes 120 medium format film and comes with two removable masks. The first is a 6×9 cm mask which will result in 8 shots on a roll. The other mask is 6×12 cm and results in 6 wider shots on a roll.

The camera has no viewfinder but on the top of the camera, there are guide lines which can be used to roughly compose the shot . Also on the top is a bubble level which is useful for ensuring you don’t have a tilted horizon.

Bubble Level

Because it is easy to get camera shake during long exposures, it is a good idea to make use of the threaded shutter release and use a cable release. There is also a tripod socket provided on the bottom of the camera.

Cable Release 2

The pinhole itself is stated to be 0.3mm with an aperture of f/135 (f/133 in the manual) and there is an exposure table on the back of the camera.

Pinhole

Camera Back

During my tests, I used a Sekonic L-208 light meter to meter the scenes and then used the exposure guide on Mr Pinhole‘s website to convert the metered values into pinhole exposure times.

The times I measured were vastly different from those on the exposure table on the back of the camera. In some cases, those times were 5 times the values that I metered so the use of a light meter is recommended.

When a shot is taken, the film is then wound on to the next odd number frame so for example when using the 6×12 cm mask, you would shoot at frames 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 & 11 or at frames 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 & 15 when using the 6×9 mask . Multiple exposures are possible by not winding on between shots.

Here are a few photos from the first roll. For these I used the smaller 6×9 cm mask.Click a picture for a larger version.

s-wpc1

s-wpc2

s-wpc3

s-wpc4

For this roll I used a small amount of tape to keep the camera back on but I deliberately did not do anything to reduce light leaks. There was a small amount of leakage around the edges of the film but nothing appeared in the image areas.

The user manual has an interesting section under “optional extras”. The “FA135-120WPC” is a 35mm converter kit that produces 24 frames 108 mm wide. Unfortunately the section is written in strike-through font so I have to assume this option is not available currently.

The Holga 120WPC can be purchased from Freestyle and currently costs us$50.

Update: I have taken a few photos using the 6×12 cm mask and you can see them here.

16 thoughts on “Holga 120 WPC (Wide Pinhole Camera)

  1. Dave Post author

    I’m not familiar with the Nishiki camera but if the lenses can be easily removed I guess you could convert it to a pinhole. You can make the pin hole from a piece of aluminum (like a soda can). http://tinyurl.com/cqm42w

  2. Randy

    Nice images, thanks for posting them. I’d say that given the ability to load 35mm in the original Holga without anything special (I mean, yeah, you can use the factory stuff, but come on, this is a Holga!) you should be able to run some 35mm in this one too. The aspect ratio would be excellent…

    – Randy

  3. Dave Post author

    When using the 6 x 9 mask, you still wind on to the next odd number. My original post was a bit confusing so I have updated it as follows:-

    “the film is then wound on to the next odd number frame so for example when using the 6×12 cm mask, you would shoot at frames 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 & 11 or at frames 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 & 15 when using the 6×9 mask.”

    The frame number pointer on the back of the camera determines which set of number on the film backing paper is read.

  4. Noelle McCoy

    I bought this camera awhile back, but for the life of me, cannot figure out the best way to get the film OUT of the camera and ready to ship to the lab w/o damaging it! Any info you might have would be appreciated! Thanks!

    -Noelle

  5. Dave Post author

    Once the film is finished you should keep on winding (2 or 3 more turns should be enough after the film disappears from the window. )

    Then open the back and take out the film. Hold the film tight so it doesn’t unwind but don’t squeeze it or you’ll get light leaks.

    There will be a paper tab that will be used to seal the film. It will either be sticky or may need to be licked like a stamp. Wrap this around the film and now to film is ready to be sent off.

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